THE BITTER ORANGES OF SOUTHERN SPAIN

Nov 9, 2023 | CULTURE & HISTORY | 0 comments

Are you a fan of fresh orange juice, especially at breakfast? If so, you’re in for a treat in Spain! But amidst the citrus paradise, it’s crucial not to confuse the sweet oranges with the bitter ones found in the charming towns and cities of Andalucia.

Spain is renowned for its oranges, boasting two distinct varieties: sweet and bitter oranges.

While sweet oranges, mainly grown in Valencia, are celebrated for their delightful flavor, today, let’s shift our focus to the intriguing world of bitter oranges. Also known as sour oranges, marmalade oranges, or Seville oranges, these fruits line the streets of Andalucia, painting a picturesque scene along the cobblestone pathways.

Despite their bitter taste, bitter oranges are cherished for their aromatic orange blossom, or ‘azahar’, filling the air with a delightful citrus scent during bloom.

Embark on a sensory journey and discover the allure of Spain’s bitter oranges during your next stroll through Andalucia’s enchanting towns and cities.

The question I most often hear is how did Spain become home to these magical trees?

History of the Bitter Oranges

The origins of the naranja amarga or bitter orange, can be traced back to South Asia. There are conflicting stories on how the orange tree migrated to the West. A type of citrus fruit was most likely brought to the Roman empire by Persian traders, who in turn introduced them into their colonies in northern Africa and the Iberian Peninsula. Later, it seems the Genoese Sailors may have brought a version of the bitter orange to the west.

However, this fruit would have been a distant cousin to today’s orange tree and it is most likely the Arabs in the 8th century who were the first to bring the fruit we know and love today. Either way, the plant found a new home in Spain or as it was known at the time, Al-Andaluz and by the 10th century this tree was well established in the area.

As the moors began to make Spain their new home, their towns and cities were built with the end goal of honoring their god Allah and representing heaven on earth. One such feature that helped them accomplish this was the orange tree, which not only brought natural beauty, decorating the streets, gardens and patios but also made their homes smell aromatic. This also played a practical role by masking the foul smells humans produce when too many live in close proximity.

By the 13th century, the bitter orange tree had several uses, the Arabs as well as the Jews would dry the blossoms and then use them to make tea, a tradition still found in Spain today. The orange blossom water and skins were also used in cooking, medicines, oils, and perfumes.

After the Reconquista the Christians kingdoms inherited the custom of growing the bitter orange tree within their city walls. The Spanish conquistadors in turn took the orange trees to America growing them in their new colonies. Even the British took an interest in the sour orange, turning the bitter flavor into a sweet marmalade which has become famous through the years. 

They even say it is a favorite with the British Royal family and Queen Elizabeth would spread the orange marmalade made from Seville oranges on her breakfast toast every morning. 

The Bitter Orange of Today

Today, the Bitter orange trees are protected by the local governments,  in some areas one can be fined for tampering, picking, or damaging these unique trees. The local government collects the fruit twice a year for a variety of different industries. 

Part of the fruits go to private businesses who produce a variety of goods such as  cosmetics and food products to include Marmalade. 

Another use for the oranges is compost production for the Spanish agricultural fields and recently, a new initiative has started in Seville to turn the oranges into electricity. The first project will be to generate enough energy to run one of the city’s water purification plants, however, the future goal is to put power back into the grid and use it to power up individual homes. 

The Bitter Orange tree has a long interesting history, and despite its appearance of being a decorative ornament it has witnessed much of Spain’s transition between two different civilizations playing its role in the development of Spanish culture and gastronomy and now it is a quintessential part of the Andalusian landscape. 

Personal Take

The bitter orange enhances the Andalucian ambiance and the towns would not be the same without the sight of these trees or the smell of their aromas. 

Here is a list of my favorite products:

  • The winery Bodega Gallardo makes a fabulous orange  liquor wine it is located  in Vejer de la frontera.
  • The perfume Aguas de Sevilla made during the 1992 expo is a fabulous smelling perfume.
  • Pancracio artisanal chocolate made in Cadiz, there are a variety of flavors but I absolutely love the one made with Almond and bitter orange. 
  • Apisierra chocolate. This company has a variety of different artisanal goods made in Jaen using ocal products.
  • Local Bitter orange marmalade LA VIEJA FÁBRICA Mermelada made from bitter oranges or ( naranja amarga).
La imagen tiene un atributo ALT vacío; su nombre de archivo es orange-wine-from-Sevilla-576x1024.jpeg

Another fan favorite is the delicious orange wine you can find in Sevilla. If you happen to find yourself in the city, you have to visit Taberna Álvaro Peregil La Goleta which is famous for its orange wines made from Moscatel and bitter orange skins. 

If you are looking for more international products the Seville oranges are also the key ingredient s used in Cointreau and Grand Marnier.

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