THE SPANISH CHRISTMAS COOKIE – POLVORONES

Dec 29, 2023 | FOOD & WINE | 0 comments

Step into the delicious world of Spanish holiday delights, where Polvorones reign supreme as a beloved Christmas tradition. These delectable, crumbly cookies, deeply entrenched in Spanish culture, grace tables across the country during the festive season.

Derived from the Spanish word ‘polvo,’ meaning powder or dust, Polvorones are aptly named for their delicate texture and melt-in-your-mouth goodness. Imagine a nutty shortbread reminiscent of Walkers, but with a unique Spanish twist.

As we delve into the secrets of this cherished treat, discover the magic of toasted flour, milk, powdered sugar, butter (or oil), and the signature touch of almonds. Join us on a culinary journey through the heartwarming flavors of Polvorones, a quintessential taste of Spanish Christmas joy.

History of the Polvoron

Although the Polvorón cookie started with humble beginnings, it has a fairly interesting past.

It is believed by many, that a similar version of this recipe was brought to Spain by the Moors (they most likely did not use pig fat) however they did not become a popular item until the 16th century.

During this time, pig farming became highly encouraged by the government of Spain (with the help of the Inquisition). This coupled with a surplus of acorns within Andalucia, helped in producing a healthy supply of pigs and pig products.
Lard thus became a great substitute for cooking and had the added benefit of targeting and alienating non-Christians (Jews and Muslims) or false conversos within the peninsula.

Origin Story of the Polvoron

To this day, there is still much debate on which town, Estepa in Seville or Antequera in Malaga, first created Polvorón which we know and love today. But for sure, the Polvorón cookie is a product of Andalucia. Evidence of a recipe showcasing how the Polvorón cookie was made that can be traced to 1740 in Morón de la Frontera.

However, most people believe it was the nuns (monjas) of Estepa, more specifically the ‘Monjas Clarisas de Estepa‘ who lived in the Convent of Santa Clara, established in 1599, that first created this cookie. These nuns were famously known for their baking and sweetmaking. During this period, the nuns would make sweetbreads,  ‘tortas de manteca‘, out of the same ingredients as the Polvorones are made today, therefore it is believed that they were the originators of the Polvorón cookie.

At first, the nuns guarded their recipes as secrets and one could only purchase these treats from the convents. As the popularity of the cookie grew the nuns had to hire workers to help them meet demand from cities all over Spain, such as Madrid and Sevilla. Over the years, the cookie became known as a Christmas cookie. Eventually, other companies and businesses started to make their version of Polvorones.

At the beginning of the 20th century, a factory in Estepa was built to specifically produce  Polvorón cookies. By the 1920s, there was such a rapid increase of companies being established to make these cookies, that the mayor called a meeting to create a union that guaranteed the quality of the product. Presently, these products are covered under the Protected Geographical Indication “Mantecado de Estepa” and “Polvorones de Estepa”, which guarantees and monitors that this Gastronomic Heritage in Estepa is cared for, maintained by the 22 companies that are currently dedicated to this work.

Although there are many different locations you can go to today to find this traditional sweet if you find yourself in Estepa you should stop at La Calchona and try this tasty cookie.

IT IS REMARCABLE TO THINK , THAT THESE COOKIES WHICH ORIGINATED OUT OF A CONVENT IN THE MIDDLE OF ANDALUCIA, NOW SELL ITS PRODUCT ALL OVER THE WORLD.

During the holidays you can even find the cookies at the hairdressers!

Polvorones Or Mantecados

Today choosing from the many varieties of Polvorones can be daunting. Not only are there several different flavors, but several different shapes, as well. To make things more confusing, there is a shortbread cookie known as the Mantecado cookie.

Polvorones vs. Mantecados
Although these two cookies have the same origin story, there are some differences. To be noted: While all Polvorones can be considered Mantecados, not all Mantecados are Polvorones.

Polvorones always contain almonds.

Mantecados do not always have almonds and the recipe usually calls for more fat (butter, pig fat, or oil), a dash of cinnamon, and or an orange peel, they also are baked a little longer than Polvorones.

*Manteca means fat in English therefore Mantecados, have more fat.

Polvorones are almost always oval and covered with a thin layer of icing sugar or powdered sugar that gives them that characteristic appearance.

Mantecados are typically round and topped with sesame seeds; some of them even have sesame in them.

The Different Types of Polvorones And Mantecado

Other flavors consist of:

  • Polvorones clásicos (classic Polvorones): Pig fat or butter, flour, almonds, and sugar.
  • Polvorones de Canela (Cinnamon Polvorones): These are Polvorones flavored with cinnamon, giving them a warm and aromatic taste.
  • Mantecado de canela y sésamo (Cinnamon and sesame butter): Contains sesame and cinnamon essence.
  • Mantecado doble de canela (Double cinnamon Mantecado): Typical artisan shortbread from Antequera.
  • Polvorones de Almendra (Almond Polvorones): Almonds are a common ingredient in Polvorones, and these cookies are specifically flavored with almonds, providing a nutty and rich flavor.
  • Mantecado de almendra (Almond butter): Contains crushed or powdered almonds.
  • Polvorones de Chocolate (Chocolate Polvorones): Some recipes incorporate cocoa powder or melted chocolate into the dough, creating chocolate-flavored Polvorones.
  • Mantecado de chocolate (Chocolate butter): Chocolate flavor.
  • Polvorones de Naranja (Orange Polvorones):These Polvorones are infused with the citrusy flavor of orange, offering a refreshing twist to the traditional recipe.
  • Polvorones de Limón (Lemon Polvorones): Lemon-flavored Polvorones feature the bright and zesty taste of lemon, providing a tangy contrast to the sweetness of the cookie.
  • Mantecado de limón (Lemon Mantecado): Contains lemon zest flavour.
  • Polvorones de Vainilla (Vanilla Polvorones): Vanilla is a classic flavor, and these Polvorones are infused with the sweet and aromatic essence of vanilla.
  • Mantecado de coco (Coconut Mantecado) : Contains coconut flavor.
  • Hojaldrina (Puff pastry): Composed of thin sheets of puff pastry and sprinkled with icing sugar.

There are even sugar free Polvorones for those who cannot eat they typical sugar.

In conclusion, these crumbly delights are not just cookies, they are a cultural phenomenon deeply ingrained in Spanish tradition. Today you can find a Polvorón for every taste. However, they all have the same common theme, crumbly and melt-in-your-mouth texture, achieved through the generous use of butter or lard in the dough. As you explore the array of Polvorones in today’s market, you’ll discover a world of flavors that cater to every palate, from classic almonds to innovative chocolate and citrus-infused varieties. The next time you encounter these delicate treats, savor not just the crumbly texture, but the centuries of history and tradition that make Polvorones a beloved part of the festive season.

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